NinjaFlex TPU 3D Printing Filament - 3mm .75kg - SUN

Here are my recommendations to get near perfect prints on the Ultimaker 2 and other Ultimaker printers.Never has a 3D Printer filament annoyed me more than this Ninjaflex has, after weeks and weeks of fine tuning and perfecting loading and print settings I was finally able to get it working.With the Ultimaker 2 I highly suggest you use the Olsson Block and get a large diameter nozzle, larger than 0.4mm. I'm not suggesting a large nozzle for easy flow and reduced feeder pressure but I'm suggesting it since it's easier to clean it since this material is not going to droop and down and fall smoothly like PLA or ABS, it instead curls up and completely surrounds your nozzle and after multiple hours of printing, your nozzle will be completely covered with TPU, this is bad since this means when the filament oozes and goes slightly up after falling a few mm down, it will adhere to the TPU until enough mass builds up to break the bond and cut the resistance build up in the blob, this results on uneven feeding and you may get under-Extrusion type prints when in reality its something else, this is by far the most annoying issue with Ninajflex and Ultimaker 2 with stock nozzle. With the Olsson Block swappable nozzles you can just clean the nozzles periodically and the large diameter options is a huge bonus.Printing speeds are same as people mention -I print at 240C at 10-15mm/s. Retraction off.Loading is a skill, I suggest you manually feed and remove previous filament with hand with a few Atomic methods done before hand, once you get clean Ninjaflex flow, just insert the filament and go through the process but stop before it enters the Nylon tube, press done using the interface controls and then use the "Move Material" option and observe the feeder carefully to see if no kinks are being formed because of excessive hot end pressure.Of course, there will be jams and kinks in the feeder, just manually remove the Bowden clips at both ends and pull from up or down depending on the kink placement and pull as hard as you can until the knot on the feeder clears and you have straight filament again, use "Move Material" to push it back down and then start printing again using the previously written loading method.This is a very annoying filament for Bowden systems but since I have a lot of back and forth with TPU and regular Thermoplastics I'm seriously considering getting a Direct Drive printer. Nevertheless, it is absolutely possible for you to print Ninajflex on a Bowden system if you are patient and are comfortable with stripping apart your printer.

Pretty cool stuff, firm but flexible. Cannot use support structures easily with this product unless you have a dual extruder and you can print the supports out of a different material (the ninjaflex adheres too tightly to itself). Good for prototyping. Often jams in my Lulzbot mini so you kind of have to baby sit it the first 15min of the print. I find if you keep the real taught for the first few minutes it doesn't jam. Ninjaflex is pliable on the reel thats why it appears to be jamming (the wheel must not be grabbing it or something). If you use the SPECIFIC ninjaflex settings that your printer recommends it works best. Don't try to print on a basic setting such as "quick print." It needs to be printed slowly. Overall if you don't mind being patient and slower prints its a good material to mess with! I would buy it again.

Great material... In addition to the flexibility, the layer bonding is superb and the material is just super-strong. No real problem getting good prints, but obviously you need an extruder capable of handling flexibles (I'm using an E3D Titan), and you need to slow down a bit... but other than that, it prints easily. Doesn't bridge real well, so denser infill and/or more surface layers needed.Settings that worked well for me on the E3D Titan: Extruder 230C, PEI bed with gluestick 55C, 120% flow, retraction 2mm @ 5mm/s, speed 15mm/s (perimeters and solid infill 75% of that), 2 solid bottom layers, 5 solid top layers, 30% infill (but depends on the part), 30% fan at layer 3, increase for layers <20 second, max fan speed 60%, bridging fan speed 100%.

Prints as easily as PLA on my Wilson RepRap with an itty bitty double flex extruder @ 235°C with a hexagon hot end, albeit at 30 mm/s and with 0.28mm layers. It really is as cool as everyone says it is. It's actually firmer than I thought it would be -- it definitely looks easier to stretch in videos than it was to actually try and tear apart in person. 10% infill makes a nice squishy object, and 30% feels more like a firm rubber ball.Only "negative" would be that it sticks *too* well to PEI and I have to use a glue stick on the surface to be able to remove the parts. Can't really fault it for that though (complaining about good bed adhesion?).

they use 1.75 mm as 3 mm

Print very slowly. Less than 20mm/s. Use a bit more retraction than normal (1.5mm or so) to eliminate stringing. Non-print moves can remain fast. It cannot handle any kind of unexpected pressure in the nozzle so make sure you've completely cleared any ABS and that your printer is fully balanced. Excessive pressure leads to buckling.It prints with a bit of a sheen to it and has a very mild odor. Also, it'll rip the kapton tape right off your plate so if you can print on a different surface, spare your kapton. The stuff comes out soft and molten and will form to whatever it hits, including your finger (ouch).

It seems slightly softer than other TPU I've used, more stretchy.I'm printing it at 60mm/s and compensating with 200% extrusion and it works fine. I ain't got time for 30mm/s.Be careful with long feed tubes, this stuff is not slippery and you will have trouble pulling it through a tube fast.The silver colour definitely have sparkly glitter particles embedded.I do see some colour banding though, not sure if it's my fault or not.

I used it in a bowden extruder printer... Which is hard considering the flex in the material, but it worked reasonably well after discovering the right extrusion settings.